El Nido, Philippines

City Guide
Introduction  |   Attractions  |   Entertainment and Eating Out  |   Shopping  |   Getting from A to B  |   Tours/Events  |   Cyber El Nido  |   Tourist Information Offices

Introduction
The small town of El Nido on the North West tip of Palawan, a 1 hour and 30 minute hop from Manila is clearly not the reason people come to this rather remote part of the Philippines. Its collection of budget cottages and guest houses, hotchpotch of restaurants and nondescript bars are typical of most Filipino fishing communities. Dramatic soaring limestone cliffs with clinging vegetation home to hundreds of species of birds; deserted sandy lagoons hosting a kaleidoscope of tropical fish and colourful corals create a pristine biodiversity not often found in Asia. The 96,000 hectare El Nido Marine Reserve is protected by the Philippine government - Bacuit Bay and its 40 plus islands on the doorstep of El Nido town present an undeveloped haven for the eco-conscious escaping the crowds of other more popular destinations such as Boracay and Mactan Island, Cebu. Kayaking, snorkelling, diving or just simply daydreaming are key to enjoying this wonderful peaceful paradise.

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Limestone cliff

Attractions
It is fair to say that El Nido is not a hive of activity but it is amazing how quickly the days will slip by. Marine activities are the top draw here whether sea kayaking in the Big and Small Lagoons of Miniloc Island or in the Cathedral Cave of Pinasil Island; or snorkelling off Dilumacad or Tapiutan or Paglugaban or for that matter any number of the islands. Matinloc boasts a secret beach and around the house reef off Miniloc you will be joined by giant Jacks, nipping Sergeant Major fish or, if you look carefully, the ever so shy clown fish, brought to fame by Disney's Nemo.

The diving is first class with over 20 recognised sites. Unfortunately the effects of El Niño can still be seen with bleached and often dead corals. To make matters worse the 'Crown of Thorns' which grazes on coral polyps has made inroads although the resorts are doing their best to remove it. Still the sight of an endangered Hawkesbill Turtle or a darting Parrot Fish, seeding Giant Clams or the sleek (but small!) Blacktip Reef Shark more than makes up for this. Do also try the underwater tunnel at Dilumacad Island. The resorts of Miniloc and Lagen have probably the most professional dive set ups.

Palawan Hornbill

For stunning beaches, El Nido has more than its fair share. Every nook and cranny has a fine sandy cove and more often than not you will have the whole place to yourself - no beach parties here. The beaches are only accessible by boat from the resorts and they will sometimes use them as dinner venue for their guests. Note that some beaches become coral at low tide which makes them less fun. Seven Commandos has a great beach and the fine sands of Entalula Island are worth a trip. Do visit Snake Island at low tide to see the hundreds of starfish although the beach itself is overrated and looks better in the photographs.

For bird lovers, the early morning (5:00am!!) or dusk time (depending on the tide) visits to the mangrove swamps of the Aberawan and Danat rivers are a real treat. You are guaranteed birds such as the Eastern Reef Egret but if you are lucky you might spot a banded mangrove snake or water monitor lizard. An attraction close to the swamps is Cudugnon Cave which archaeologists believe was a burial site during Neolithic times and can lead to some fairly tall stories from the guides. Also popular are stories of isolated Japanese troops found long after the end of WWII.

Those with a preference to dry land have very limited options. Lagen Island does have a forest trail where one can see monkeys, the Palawan Hornbill and striking Palawan Squirrel. A similar trail can be found on Pangulasian Island. Those who do venture out on foot will be rewarded with a wonderful array of flora and fauna. Mountain bikes can be hired in El Nido for use on the main Palawan Island.

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Entertainment and Eating Out
There is a reason the resorts in this area offer full board (all meals included). There is no eating out of any real sorts unless you go to other resorts or use the rather eclectic set of budget eateries in El Nido. Guests at Miniloc and Lagen resorts can switch between the two. The same is true for entertainment. There are no buzzing bars, nightclubs and pick up joints - rather hammocks, a good book and the gentle lapping of the sea.

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Shopping
Do your shopping in Manila. Trinket shops and dusty supermarkets are found in the town and basic holiday needs are met through the resort boutiques. Anything more complicated is only going to leave you disappointed.

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Mangrove tour

Getting From A to B
Your only choice around Bacuit bay is by boat. Most of the resorts include in their packages unlimited use of bancas and speedboats which makes life a lot easier. Otherwise boats can be hired at El Nido town. In town, walking will suffice.

Buses and jeepneys connect El Nido with Puerto Princesa although most guests fly in through El Nido airport, a few kilometres north of the town. It has a rather basic runway with a thatched hut as a waiting room - very quaint. Flights come from Manila a couple of times a day from Soriano Aviation. The planes are typically 19-seater Dorniers and are an experience in themselves!

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Tours/Events
All the tours in El Nido are arranged by the resorts and are centred around the islands that make up Bacuit Bay. Usually the tours are bespoke to meet the individual needs of the guests. Mangrove tours, picnic trips, snorkelling and diving expeditions and kayaking forays are typical for the area. Secret caves, deserted beaches and coral walls teeming with sea life are the name of the game here.

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Exploring secret caves

Cyber El Nido
The two main resorts do have internet connections if you have to stay in touch and it is possible to get connected in El Nido. Expect slow connections and to pay more than elsewhere in the Philippines.

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Tourist Information
There is scant information on the area and most people who come rely on their resort guides who have most of the facts but also can spin a good yarn. The resorts provide limited printed material. Try http://www.wowphilippines.com.ph/ for more information but do not expect too much.

NOTE: Some people are concerned about personal safety in remote places in the Philippines with respect to groups like the Abu Sayyaf. Palawan is generally not considered a risk as it is well protected by both navy and marines. There are military facilities nearby to protect the oil exploration offshore and there is protection for the resorts which is very discrete. There are also many activities to enforce the protection of the marine park which makes El Nido an unlikely target.

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